Maramures

Maramureș – Traditions, Wooden Churches & Rolling Mountains

Maramureș, the northernmost region of Romania, is a living archive of centuries-old rural traditions. Villages here have preserved the customs, crafts, and spiritual life of their Dacian ancestors to an extraordinary degree. Wood is the primary medium of artistic expression, reflected in intricately carved houses, wooden churches with tall spires and shingled roofs, and the monumental gates marking village entrances. These gates, often supported by three columns, feature symbolic motifs such as the sun and twisted rope, representing life and continuity. The finest examples can be found in Vadu Izei, Budești, Bârsana, and Oncești.

Woodcarvings extend to eaves, doorways, and windows, while hand-woven carpets and embroidered folk costumes showcase the region’s artisanal skill. Social life continues to revolve around the village church, many of which have been recognised by UNESCO for their historical and architectural significance. The Wooden Churches of Maramureș, for example in Ieud and Bârsana, feature high roofs, narrow pointed steeples, and interiors painted with biblical scenes often juxtaposed with familiar village landscapes. Local oak, resilient against the elements, was the primary material used by craftsmen.

The spiritual outlook of Maramureș residents is perhaps most evident in Săpânța, home to the famous Merry Cemetery. Here, blue wooden crosses are adorned with carved scenes and humorous epitaphs celebrating both the virtues and imperfections of the deceased. Visitors can appreciate the artistry of Stan Ion Pătraș, who began the tradition in 1935, as well as the work of his successors. Pătraș’ house is now a fascinating museum.

The landscape is dominated by mountains and rolling valleys, with the Viseu, Iza, and Mara valleys crossing the region. Rodnei Mountains National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, is rich in flora and fauna: chamois leap among the rocks, eagles soar above, and crocus and other wildflowers bloom in dazzling colours each spring.

Sightseeing Highlights

• Merry Cemetery (Săpânța) – hand-crafted, colourfully painted grave markers, uniquely charming.

• Rodnei Mountains – off-the-beaten-track hiking and wildlife spotting.

• Wooden Churches – quintessential Maramureș architecture with magnificent spires.

• Sighetu Marmației – an open-air museum featuring dozens of traditional homes and farm buildings.

• Forestry Railway / Steam Train – the narrow-gauge line from Vișeu de Sus travels 30 miles along the scenic Vaser Valley, showcasing traditional logging practices and providing access to remote mountain settlements. Today, visitor carriages allow travellers to experience this living heritage.

Food & Wine
Hospitality is central to Maramureș culture. Guests are traditionally welcomed with homemade breads and a small glass of horincă, a double-distilled plum or fruit brandy. Local delicacies include smoked sausages, bacon, and fresh ewe’s milk cheese. Balmoș, an oven-baked mixture of polenta and ewe’s milk cheese, is a local favourite. During Easter, families bring baskets of red-painted eggs, pasca (sweet cheese cake), knot-shaped breads, pies, and braised lamb to be blessed at church. On Christmas and New Year’s Eve, a slice of piftie (pork jelly) is traditionally eaten by every family member.

We look forward to being of service.